Porto, Portugal

 Regarding yesterday’s power outage that threatened our ability to dock in Porto, Portugal:  The fear was,  since three countries (France, Spain, and Portugal) had to collaborate to solve the power problem, progress would be slow and it might take a week for things to get back to normal.  Lucky for us, that was not the case.  Twenty-four hours after the lights went out, all was restored and we were allowed to dock.

Vann had gone online in search of  Porto’s best paella, his favorite dish.  Word was that it’s a tiny place (Taberna dos Mercadores) with no chance to make a reservation online.  We had determined to be there at their noon opening time.  We were not the first to arrive.  Mostly young people in line ahead of us (college students?) but all were patiently waiting...well past twelve-thirty.  A young French couple was behind us, and they reported that they had been in line the day before but never managed to get a table before the kitchen closed.  By the time the door opened, there were at least twenty people in line behind us, all lined up on an uphill cobblestone street with no chance to sit.  A staff member came out to explain that there were seats only for 16 of us, whom he counted off.  We were 13 and 14.  He told the rest that the wait would be at least another hour and a half; their call whether to stay or move on.  They all stayed.

Lunch was superb.  We started with garlic shrimp and a basket of good bread to soak up the garlicky, buttery goodness in the bottom of the pan.  The paella dish was over the top and extremely generous with a variety of shellfish.  (I thought it was more like a seafood risotto.)  And even though neither of us was still hungry, we opted for a pear poached in port wine, which was perfection!  And, of course, glasses of good local wine.

The entire kitchen was between the wooden counter at the back and the wall behind it.  The chef rotated but never took a step!

Another objective for our Porto visit was to find the needlepoint shop, Unwind, that specializes in canvases designed like painted tiles.  Uber to the rescue!  It took less than five minutes for our driver to arrive, and the cost was under $5.00.

Our last stop was at the Sao Bento train station, famous for its painted tile walls.

And that was Porto.

Portimao, Portugal

 We are at sea, and sometimes the sea has ideas of its own.  Today we were to have landed at Algarve, in Portugal.  The wind and the sea, however, did not cooperate, so our captain made the call to skip this port and head instead to our next stop at Leixoes, Portugal.  We were to have tendered in, and nothing is worse than a super-rough ride in a tender!  A sea day is always welcome.

Today at my stitch group, one of the ladies received a text asking about the power outages in Spain, Portugal, and France.  Further research confirmed that lights are out, streetlights too, in Portugal, our next stop.  At our port talk, it was apparent that the cruise director knew nothing of the power outages.  Huge questions remain.

We will hear in the morning what the day holds.  Whatever…it will be a grand adventure!  Hoping to get into Porto, as there is much to see.  Gotta get a pin in my map!

More news at eleven!!

Cadiz, Spain

A stop at Cadiz was our introduction to Andalusia in southern Spain, where our excursion focused on flamenco music and dance, the production of sherry, and architectural styles that reflect the region’s history.

First stop: the nearby city of Jerez, home of Tio Pepe sherry.  There must be a financial arrangement between that company and Viking, as we spent way too much time there.  The grounds of the bodega are lovely, however.

The rest of Jerez was beautiful and inviting; I would have enjoyed having more time there.

Our last stop was for lunch at a restaurant that featured Flamenco music and dance in addition to local culinary specialties.  No photo could ever convey the feeling of a Flamenco performance:  the guitar player’s fingers fly quickly up, down, and across the strings; the singer’s voice explodes from deep within; and the passion in the dancer’s face changes as fast as the rhythmic pounding of her feet upon the stage. The whole performance left us all breathless.

We returned to the port with twenty minutes to spare, so our guide and driver took us on a windshield tour of Old Cadiz, one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Western Europe.  Founded by the Phoenicians in 1100 BC, Cadiz sits at the end of an isthmus, surrounded on three sides by water.  The variety of its architectural styles reflects the highs and lows of its 3000-plus year history.

Casablanca, Morocco

 First of all, let’s talk about the 1942 film.  It was shot almost entirely at the Warner Brothers Studio in Burbank, California.  There was no Rick’s Cafe in Casablanca until 2004, when an enterprising retired American diplomat, Kathy Kriger, acquired a 1930 Moroccan mansion featuring the architectural details inspired by the movie and transformed it into a restaurant.  It exists today under the management of the original owner’s daughter.

The main attraction in Casablanca today is the Hassan II Mosque, one of the world’s most magnificent.  Completed in 1993 and built over the ocean, largely on reclaimed land, it can accommodate 25,000 worshipers inside and an additional 80,000 on its surrounding terrace.  Using materials sourced largely from Morocco, it features Moroccan, Andalusian, and Moorish styles with intricate mosaics, marble floors, carved wood ceilings, horseshoe arches, and even a retractable roof.

Exquisite carving throughout both the interior and exterior of the mosque.

This is the color palette (although most of the mosque is pure white.)

The small door at the end of the aisle faces Mecca.

While clearly overshadowed by this impressive mosque, two other take-aways deserve mention.  In the streets we sometimes saw men in red coats and hats, offering water to passers-by with the hope of receiving a tip.

A symbol we saw frequently during our time in Casablanca was the outstretched palm of a hand.  The Hand of Fatima is a powerful and widespread symbol, found in the design of jewelry, tourist souvenirs,  and decorative household items.  This ancient symbol is beloved by Moroccans, who believe it protects them and brings blessings and happiness.  We saw several hands used as door knockers.

“Come with me to the kasbah” in Agadir, Morocco

As noted in previous posts, Vann and I have had good luck seeing the sights with a private driver rather than on the ship’s excursions.  We get to choose our own itinerary, set our own pace, escape the crowd, and provide work (at a reasonable cost) to a local person.  When we left the ship yesterday in Agadir, we were approached by Sayid; we told him where we wanted to go, agreed on a price, and off we went.

First stop was at the funicular that took us up to the kasbah, or fortress overlooking the port city.

Sayid reminded us that in 1960, Agadir suffered an earthquake that claimed the lives of one-third of its population, left 35,000 people homeless, and caused near-total destruction of the city.  The kasbah, now rebuilt, offers a panoramic view of the new Agadir.  The emerging and modern city thoughtfully capitalizes on its waterfront location.  There is affordable housing. Expansive desert landscaping and walking paths have been added.  Development continues and promises to make Agadir a world-class destination.

While it had not been on our original list, Sayid pretty much told us that we would go to Medina, and we’re glad he did.  Another victim of the earthquake, this center for creativity and trade has been beautifully restored with its labyrinth of narrow streets and courtyards reflecting traditional Moroccan architecture.

The quilter in me was dazzled by the mosaic floors.  (Just one square of dozens more.)

Our last stop was at Souk El Had, a marketplace with an estimated 6000 vendors!  Encircled by 18-foot walls with 13 gates, it is the largest urban market in Africa, covering more than 32 acres.  Locals know their way around, but for a couple of first-time visitors it was overwhelming.  It became clear why Viking did not offer Souk El Had on its included excursion:  too many passengers would be there still!   Lucky for us, Sayid stayed at our side, watching our steps as we navigated the narrow and uneven passageways and making sure we took in all the colors, smells, and sounds of this incredible, most authentic  experience.

Tenerife, Canary Islands, Spain

Years ago we had gone to the Canary Islands, the island of Fuerteventura to be precise.  It was a beach vacation, and I can’t say I remember any more than that, so I was not expecting much from our stop at Tenerife.  Wrong!  

A view from our coach as he headed to Anaya.

We docked in Santa Cruz, the island’s capital, but soon were on our way to the northern corner of the island and the Anaya Rural Park, a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve.  The drive was spectacular, both for the views of the coastline below and for the lush greenery of the rainforest.  Most notable was the so called “candelabra cactus” which is not a cactus at all but which has upright arms that spring from its base and can reach a height of ten feet or more.  (Sorry, neither Vann nor I got a good photo, but you can Google it.)   The area has a microclimate that favors the growing of a variety of vegetables and fruits to include grapes for wine.  Our tour made a wine stop (no cork and no label, but it wasn’t bad.)

The town of  San Cristobal de La Laguna is a jewel!  Once the capital city of the Canary Islands, this UNESCO World Heritage site features colonial architecture, ornate churches (and a convent of cloistered nuns), rich history, and a vibrant university and cultural life.  On the day we visited, folks were gearing up for their annual book festival to be held the following day.

Given a bit of time to explore on our own, we took our guide’s advice and slipped into a nearby cafe for the locals’ favorite drink, a barraquito.

To make one, slowly pour the following into a juice glass, in order, trying  to keep them in layers:  (Pouring over the back of a spoon might help.)

A Tablespoon of condensed milk

One ounce of liquor  (They use Licor 43, but Tia Maria or Cointreau are alternatives)

Two ounces hot espresso coffee

1.5 ounces whole milk, frothed

A dusting of cinnamon powder

A zest of lemon peel, yellow part only

Serve immediately with a spoon to stir before drinking, mixing the layers for a balanced flavor of sweet, creamy, citrusy, and coffee notes.  Muy buono!

Cape Verde (Praia and Mindelo) West Africa

Not every port of call knocks your socks off, but without exception there is always a take-away worth remembering.  Here’s what I’ll remember from our visit to Cape Verde.

This is Cape Verde’s flag, and it is rich with symbolism.  The blue represents the sky above and the Atlantic Ocean that surrounds the island.  The red and white stripes symbolize the road toward building the nation, white stands for peace while red represents the effort and determination of the people.  The ten yellow stars, arranged in a circle, are symbolic of the unity among the ten islands that make up the archipelago.  (Our guide, however, said that since one of the islands is uninhabited, the tenth star represents the Verdeans who live abroad.  There is a large population of Cape Verdeans, estimates as high as 265,000, who live in the US, mostly in the New England states.  Owing to hardships at home and seeking greater opportunities, Verdeans initially found work on whaling ships and were prized for their hard work and reliability.  Our guide told us that the “Verdean Dream” is to emigrate to America, make lots of money, and return and build a house in the islands.)

The “Verde” part was a surprise, as I was expecting to see some green.  Truth is, we are still in Africa with its desert climate and very low rainfall.  Our excursion took us to the summit of  Pico de Antonia where, at  an elevation of over 4000-feet, clouds provide some shade and rainfall.  I will remember the terracing that has been established to hold soil and moisture.  Every stone placed by hand, the terraces give evidence to the ingenuity and persistence of generations of local farmers.

One other story will stay with me.  As we walked down the narrow pedestrian street in center Praia, we found leafy bowers formed by trees that make an archway over the road.  Countless strands of white mini-lights had been added.  Our guide told us that at Christmastime the locals dress all in white and go for an evening stroll…their version of a “White Christmas.”

Null Island

This was a hoot!  If you have been following this blog, then you know that Viking never misses the chance to throw a party.  Null Island provided just that opportunity.

The point where the Equator and the Prime Meridian meet; that is, zero degrees latitude and zero degrees longitude, is a “place” called Null Island.  No land, not even a marker buoy, just a place on the map.  But it has taken on a life of its own.  

VRBO lists vacation rentals there.  Null Island restaurants accept reservations.  It has its own website.

Viking Sky reached those coordinates at 7am on a recent morning.  The Explorers’ Lounge was full.  Mimosas and Bloody Marys flowed.  Trays of doughnuts were passed.  The onboard lecturers gave their spiels.  Anyone who didn’t know about Null Island before knows about it now.

Here’s a photo of null Island.

Dinner in the Dunes

It was all very hush-hush.  We were told only to dress warmly and be ready to board a coach at 6pm.  

Turns out that about 700 of us answered the call and were scooped up by awaiting buses.  Off we went for parts unknown, traveling across the desert, often off-road.  After 45 minutes we arrived amid the tallest of Namibia’s dunes, where an enterprising cadre of cooks, entertainers, and servers greeted us for an unforgettable Dinner Under the Desert Sky.

As the evening wound down, we were led back to our buses along a path of luminaria under a starry sky.  Back at the ship, the awaiting staff greeted us in two lines at the foot of the gangway.  Onboard, the culinary team had prepared an extravaganza of all things chocolate, ending our evening on the sweetest of notes.

Walvis Bay, Namibia

 Walvis Bay was all about the dunes.  Period.  

We docked at about noon and immediately set out on an excursion to see flamingos, pelicans, and Namibia’s famous sand dunes.  Flamingos and pelicans were off breeding, but the dunes showed up in force!  I was soon off to climb the highest one.

I’m one of those specks on the dune:  at the bottom, left of center.

Victory!

Luderitz, Namibia

Once a prosperous diamond mining town, Luderitz stands as a reminder of its glory days.  Founded by German merchant Franz Adolf Luderitz in 1883, the town is now appreciated for its colorful German colonial architecture.  Perched atop Diamond Hill is the lovely Evangelical Lutheran church with stained glass windows donated by Kaiser Wilhelm II.

Cape Town, South Africa

Sometimes Vann and I grow a bit weary of group tours, so in Cape Town we had arranged to have a private driver take us around to the “must sees” and “must dos” of that area.  Good call; we had a great day with Bradley at the wheel!

Top on our list was a drive to Cape Point, with its view of the Cape of Good Hope, which I had thought was the southernmost point on the African Continent.  Turns out that honor goes to Cape Agulhas, about 90 miles away as the crow flies.  But Cape Point still provided a good photo op:

The drive around Cape Town was spectacular, mostly for its natural beauty.  Great stretches of white sand were around every corner it seemed…and not a high rise in sight to spoil the view.

Having a driver also allowed us to pass through harbor towns and fishing villages with roads so narrow that a motor coach could never have squeezed through.  Turns out Bradley was a pretty good scout, too, spotting this pair of ostriches out for a walk on the beach.

Our next stop was at Boulders Beach, home to a colony of African penguins.

We also wanted to do some wine tasting in the Stellenbosch area of South Africa, and Bradley’s choice of Spier Wine Farm did not disappoint.  We started out with a lovely al fresco lunch under the trees before making our way to the tasting area, where we opted to try three whites and three reds.  Our wine tab came to less than $7.00!

Would happily return to Cape Town.

Port Elizabeth, South Africa

Port Elizabeth was not a stop with a lot of whistles and bells, but we had such a fine time there.  Our excursion took us to Sundays River, where we were warmly welcomed with smiles, coffee, and muffins by the family who own our river boat.  Cruising up Sundays River, our first stop was at a riverside sand bank with many holes of different sizes bored into the sand.  Each was home to a particular kind of local fauna, the most colorful of which was this unnamed bird:

Doing a 180 from there, we cruised toward the mouth of the river where it meets the Indian Ocean.  The notable geological formations here are sand dunes, and we stopped to explore the largest of them.  Several of us kicked off our shoes and headed up the dune, reaching an altitude of about 120 feet.  Eureka!

That’s the Indian Ocean in the background.  The fascinating thing about these dunes is how much water they hold.  Digging down just a couple of handfuls, we reached wet sand that continually feeds the river with fresh water.